Châteaux de la Loire 3: Chambord

Chambord was our final destination and it was by far the most impressive building I have ever seen. It is 156 meters long (512 ft), 56 meters high (184 ft), and has 426 rooms, 282 chimneys and 77 staircases—over one room for each day of the year—and its park and game reserve are surrounded by France’s longest wall (30 kilometers or 18.5 miles).

Chambord’s exterior and double helix staircase were jaw-droppingly stunning. Some people believe that Leonardo da Vinci is responsible for designing the staircase, though it has never been confirmed. But I have to say the most marvelous feature was the roof. Walking around the roof was like stepping into another city. As you can see from the skyline of the château, the roof really does resemble a small village placed on top of a building.

The interior was also impressive and many of the fireplaces were actually lit. (Thank goodness! It would have been absolutely freezing without those fires because it had just gotten colder on account of the rain.) My favorite room here was the Apartment de Parade. The furnishings were sumptuous and the gold ornamentation emblazoned on the white walls was spectacular.

The carriage rooms displayed five or six different carriages as well as a gargantuan clock that used to be on the façade of the building. There was also a special exhibit on Chambord as a hostage of war from 1939-1945. It was during World War II that art collections from the Louvre and other museums were stored at Chambord.

When I say this castle was incredible, it was. And the most incredible thing is that it was only a hunting lodge. A hunting lodge?! You’ve got to be kidding me. Seriously, this architectural monster was definitely not my idea of a quaint hunting lodge, but then, I’m not King Francis I. In 1519, Francis I decided he wanted something in the Italian Renaissance style and decided to convert Chambord from the medieval fortress it was, into what it is now. He never saw his project completed (and during his 32 year reign, he stayed at Chambord a grand total of 72 days), but his son King Henry II, who was an equally passionate hunter, transformed it into what it is today. I also thought it was neat that the exiled King of Poland, Stanislaus Leszczynski lived here from 1725 to 1733, but that’s mostly because he’s Polish and so am I.

Even though I thought Chambord was the most beautiful architecturally, I have to say that my favorite of the three châteaux was definitely Chenonceau. It would absolutely be my first recommendation to anyone wondering which castle they should visit. My second pick would be Chambord because it was beautiful, but I felt it lacked a soul, if that makes sense. We took a vote on the bus and one person liked Azay-le-Rideau best, about 15 liked Chenonceau and the rest, about 44, liked Chambord.

At this point, it’s possible you may be wondering what I think of the Château d’Angers now that I’ve seen some truly exquisite castles. I can happily tell you that the Château d’Angers still remains one of my favorites. Of course, it was my first castle sighting and I still think it’s beautiful for the raw power its walls suggest. And unlike the other castles, it best served its intended purpose which was to keep invaders out. (I still can’t get over the fact that Chambord was intended to be a hunting lodge.)

These were truly chouettes châteaux.

Heidi

P.S. Chouette means cool, great or neat.

Châteaux de la Loire 2: Chenonceau

Second on the list was Chenonceau. Chenonceau is definitely the castle I would pick to live in; it was by far the most comfortable and the grounds were the prettiest. It is known as the Châteaux des Dames, or Ladies’ Castle, for all the queens and mistresses who have lived there. Really I’m not being sexist or anything, but I think you can tell that a woman had a hand in its design because it doesn’t dominate the landscape like other castles I’ve seen. Rather, its situation on the Cher River, a tributary of the Loire, creates a harmony between the breathtaking splendor of the castle and its natural surroundings.

Leading up to the castle is a long driveway, with trees on either side of the road. The grounds include two gardens on each side of the château, one designed by Diane de Poitiers, the other by Catherine de Medici, as well as an old 16th century farm, wax museum, labyrinth, caryatides and chapel. Inside, the many rooms house numerous paintings by Reubens, Riguad, Tintoretto, Van Dyck, Van Loo, Veronese, Poussin, hundreds of ancient tapestries and grand furniture. Truly, the interior was unparalleled in beauty.

Each of the rooms are named after its occupants. The most famous of these rooms is the Chamber of Five Queens and its inhabitants were the daughters and grand-daughters of Catherine de Medici: Queen Margaret (wife of Henry IV), Elizabeth of France (wife of Philip II of Spain), Mary Stuart (wife of Francois II), Elizabeth of Austria (wife of Charles IX), and Louise of Lorraine (wife of Henry III).

Another of the rooms was outfitted entirely in black after Louise of Lorraine was widowed. The only disappointment during the entire day was that the façade was being renovated: The château would have been even more remarkable had it not been under construction.

The most fascinating thing about this castle was its history. It was constructed in the 16th century by Thomas Bohier and his wife Katherine Briçonnet. Then, it was given by King Henry II to his mistress, Diane de Poitiers, who was 20 years his senior. However, Henry II was married to Catherine de Medici who was obviously annoyed by her husband’s favoritism because after his death she forced Diane to give her the castle, even though Diane and Catherine are actually descended from the same family.

Gabrielle d’Estrees, mistress of Henry IV, the king who declared “Paris is worth a mass,” was also mistress of Chenonceau. During the Enlightenment, Madame Louise Dupin became its mistress and entertained famous philosophers like Voltaire, Montesquieu, and Rousseau. Madame Dupin also saved the chapel from destruction during the French Revolution by turning it into a wood store and is said to have changed the castle’s name by dropping the royal “x” at the end of “Chenonceaux” to please the local villagers.

During World War I, Chenonceau became a hospital ward and during World War II, it was the divide between Nazi territory and the “free” Vichy zone. In 1988, Prince Charles and Lady Diana stayed here for a time. With that said, I think that Châteaux des Dames is a very fitting title for Chenonceau.